Dating in Besançon, in the shadow of the citadel

The Vauban Citadel, a shared panorama

Listed as UNESCO World Heritage with the other Vauban sites, Besançon’s citadel rises more than a hundred metres above the loop of the Doubs. You walk up from the Roman Porte Noire along Rue des Fusillés. From the ramparts, the panorama takes in the old roofs, the cathedral and the surrounding hills. A Resistance museum and a zoological park extend the visit: plenty for a full afternoon and quiet confidences.

Saint-Jean Cathedral and astronomical clock

At the foot of the citadel, Saint-Jean Cathedral houses a rare treasure: the astronomical clock designed in the nineteenth century by Auguste-Lucien Vérité, with seventy dials and automatons that come alive at show times. A few steps away, Square Castan gathers Gallo-Roman remains in a peaceful garden. Meeting at noon, watching the clock perform, then strolling beneath the plane trees makes for a gentle, almost timeless morning.

Place de la Révolution and Granvelle Palace

Place de la Révolution, the commercial heart of the town, comes alive every morning around the covered market. Nearby, the sober Renaissance Granvelle Palace holds the Museum of Time, fitting in this French capital of watchmaking. The day ends on a terrace along Rue des Granges, where student cafés set the pace. On Lyad, Besançon singles share their favourite spots; it is up to you to find someone to ring the next bell with.